Cosmetics Microbiology:
By : V.Palanivelan,
Introduction:
Cosmetics are chemical formulation which used to enhance the appearance of skin and/or hair. The cosmetic products are otherwise known as Personal care products. In cosmetics an active ingredient or group of active ingredients are mixed with a ‘base’. The ‘base’ may be Gel, Cream, Lotion, Shampoo, Oil etc. The active ingredient means a chemical substance or herbal extract(s) which having some beneficial effect on skin/hair. For Example, Titanium dioxide (CAS number: 13463-67-7) is used in Sunscreen creams and Neem (Azadirachta indica) extract is used for antiseptic and Acne treatment purpose. In some cosmetics more herbal extracts like Curcuma aromatica, Azadirachta indica, Ocimum basilicum are added. Those types of cosmetics are called as herbal cosmetics. Now herbal cosmetics are very popular in market. People are regularly using cosmetics are as follows,
• Face Cream
• Moisturizing Lotion
• Sun Screen Cream
• Shampoo
• Hair Oil
• Under Eye Gel
• Face Gel etc.
Microorganisms and Cosmetics:
Microorganisms are ubiquitous in nature. The stability of cosmetics may be disturbed by microbial contamination. Fungal contaminations in cosmetics are more dangerous than bacterial contamination. It will destroy the nature of cosmetics due to their cotton type growth and it may cause the infection on skin. And used cosmetics are having more chance for microbial contamination. Due to improper handling, the cosmetics are contaminated by microbes. For example: Gels are easily contaminated when using wet fingers to apply on the face. And also cosmetics in wild mouth containers are easily contaminated than tubes. A research paper was published by Laila A. Nasser, Riyadh University For Girls -Saudi-Arabia (Saudi Journal of Biological Sciences 15 (1) 121-128 June, 2008) on “Fungal Profiles Isolated from Open and Used Cosmetic Products Collected from Different Localities in Saudi Arabia”. According to Laila, the fungal genus Aspergillus was the most common genus while Aspergillus terreus was the most common species in open and used cosmetic products. Generally preservatives are used to inhibit the growth of microbes in food, beverages, cosmetics etc.
Preservatives:
Preservatives are natural or chemical substance which is used to preserve the materials.
Preservatives are classified in to two groups namely,
Class I Preservatives and
Class II Preservatives.
Class I preservatives are natural substances like sugar, Salt, honey whereas Class II preservatives are chemicals such as Benzoate, Sorbate, Parabens Etc. Class II type preservatives are commonly used in cosmetics to inhibit the microbial growth. The chemicals like potassium sorbate, Salicylic acid, Benzyl alcohol are comes under Class II type preservatives. But ECOCERT (an organic certification organization in France) allows the above chemicals to use as preservatives in natural/organic cosmetics. The following chemicals are commonly used in cosmetics as preservatives.
Potassium Sorbate:
CAS number 24634-61-5
IUPAC name: Potassium (2E,4E)-hexa-2,4-dienoate
Use: It is used to inhibit the growth of yeast and mould.
Benzyl Alcohol:
CAS number 100-51-6
IUPAC name: Phenylmethanol
Use: bacteriostatic.
Methyl Paraben:
CAS number 99-76-3
IUPAC name: Methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate
Use: Anti-Fungal agent.
Propyl Paraben:
CAS number: 94-13-3
IUPAC name: propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate
Use: Anti-Fungal agent.
Methyl paraben Sodium:
CAS number : 5026-62-0
Use: Anti-Microbial
Propyl praben sodium:
CAS number : 35285-69-9
Use: Anti-Microbial
Now some cosmetics manufacturers are not using Parabens as a preservatives. But The European Cosmetics Association (COLIPA) said the parabean are not dangerous when used in cosmetics as preservatives.
List of Preservatives: ( Allowed by COLIPA)
Benzoic acid and its sodium salt
Propionic acid and its salts
Salicylic acid and its salts
Biphenyl-2-ol (o-phenylphenol) and its salts
3-Acetyl-6-methylpyran-2,4(3H)-dione (Dehydroacetic acid) and its salts
Formic acid and its sodium salt
Undec-10-enoic acid and its salts etc
Manufacturing of Cosmetics:
The manufacturing unit should be a GMP (Good Manufacturing Practice) Certified. The raw material should test for chemical and microbiological quality. The approved raw materials only used for manufacturing of products.
To maintain high quality and prevent microbial contamination during manufacturing process the following points should be considered.
• The production area should be clean and dust free.
• The floor of production area should be cleaned by using disinfectants.
• Required persons only allowed with in production area. Excess workers should not be allowed.
• High standard personal hygiene should be maintained.
• Workers should not handle finished cosmetic products in vessels without proper instruction.
• The production area should be fumigated by regular intervals.
Analysis and Specifications:
The COA (Certificate of Analysis) for every purchased raw materials and every batch of finished goods should be maintained. The methodology and Specifications for cosmetic products are released by BIS (BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS) in India. Specification and Methodology for various cosmetics which released by BIS are as follows,
• IS 11377:1985 --- Guidelines for Hygienic Manufacture of Cosmetics.
• IS 14648:1999 --- Methods of Test for Microbiological Examination of Cosmetics.
• IS 66608:2004 --- Skin Creams - Specification.
• IS 7884:2004 --- Shampoo, Surfactant based- Specification.
• IS 5784: 2001 --- Shaving Soap – Specification.
• IS 7123:1993 --- Hair Oil – Specification.
According to IS 14648:1999, Total Viable Count is not more than 1000 cfu/gm in cream products. The sum of Total Bacterial Count and Yeast & Mould count gives Total Viable Count (TVC). Based on IS 14648:1999 only TVC can indicate on a COA. I wish to indicate the both counts ( i.e Bacterial Count and Yeast & Mould count) separately in a COA with individual specifications. Based on my experience in cosmetics industry, the Mould & Yeast counts especially the Mould count should be Zero (0). A COA for every finished cosmetics product may be like following one.
CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS
MICROBIOLOGICAL ANALYSIS
Product Name:
B.No:
Mfg.Dt
Exp.Dt.
S.No Test Result Specification
1 Total Bacterial Count ** cfu/gm NMT 100 cfu/gm
2 Yeast and Mould Count
2.1 Yeast Count ** cfu/gm NMT 50 cfu/gm
2.2 Mould Count ** cfu/gm Nil
3 Gram Negative Pathogens Negative Negative
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My Thanks to:
Laila A. Nasser, Riyadh University For Girls -Saudi-Arabia.
